Getting Hooked: Discover the Hook of Burgundy at Domaine de Cromey
Map Courtesy of Vins de Bourgogne - Interactive Atlas of Burgundy Wines
Finding the Sweet Spot – Geology and the Hook of Burgundy
Understanding the geography and geology of Burgundy is key to appreciating this astonishing land. The "Hook of Burgundy" is a feature of central Burgundy, marking the point where Domaine de Cromey lies, and proving that there is nothing about Burgundy that can’t be better understood or enjoyed when you know which part you’re in - how it relates to the part you just came from, and how it affects where you’re going next. Knowing the lie of the land, which villages have risen to prominence for which grape, and why certain wines come only from certain areas, is perhaps more important here than in any other wine region in the world.
For anyone who wants to truly understand Burgundy geology and Burgundy wines—such as the ones stocked on BurgundyWine.com — staying in Burgundy, being surrounded by the vines and the wine folk lore, is a must. But with so many locations to pick from, where to choose? Naturally you’ll want to see as much as you can – in which case, making your base in the centre of the Burgundy map means the best access. You’ll want somewhere luxurious, steeped in history, with a capacious wine-cellar, top-draw kitchen and chef, and knowledgeable proprietors to set you off on your journeys. Happily, we know such a place, in the Hook of Burgundy and we hope that soon you will too: Domaine de Cromey, home of Elden Selections in Burgundy.
Locating the Hook of Burgundy
If you’ve ever looked at a map of Burgundy (known as Bourgogne in French), you’ll know that it is basically a long, thin tract of the world’s finest wine-growing earth and rock. Imagine a line beginning at Dijon at its most northerly point, and travelling south, through the Côte de Nuits and, past Beaune, through the Côte de Beaune, and starting to turn westward at Santenay. So far so good, and it continues through Maranges. But then it flicks up a bit northward—just like a fish hook—with its point right where Domaine de Cromey sits. That's the Hook of Burgundy. When you see that below is all of the Côte d’Or, Chalonnaise, and Mâconnais regions, you discover that this is truly the sweet-spot for visitors looking to stay centrally in Burgundy.
When you look at your map of Burgundy and look for quality, it’s not the vineyards that are the most important part – not even the villages, either. It’s on the hills behind the villages where our gaze should fall, for it’s here that we can learn the most about Burgundy geology and terroir. If you see a small road leaving the village snaking up through the hillside, then that is likely to be a combe, and most villages have one. A very long time ago, there would have been a river flowing out and down this combe – mostly a river of mud, and travelling very slowly, but it nonetheless had a crucial part to play here because that mud was deposited around the combe and the surrounding hillside. Today, it is no coincidence that the best Premier and Grand Cru vineyards are found on this very land. Not only do they share soil, but they share altitude – they are the same distance up the slopes.
Some cliffs you might see behind some villages are different – they do not contain combes and they never crumbled – for example, the cliffs near Saint Romain. These never deposited silt onto the plains below. These then have a different effect on wines and their characters. And some large sheets of rock can be traced from one part of Burgundy, underground, to come up in another part entirely. A little south of Volnay, a sheet of rock that goes underground up near Nuits St. Georges comes back to the surface. It has transformed into something else entirely, and produces different wines.
Benefits to Staying Centrally in Burgundy
From your base at Domaine de Cromey you could venture north, towards the spiritual home of the region and its main city – Beaune. Here you can visit the outstanding Hospices de Beaune (and maybe even attend the wine auction in which Elden Selections bids for lots each year). A little further north and you will reach the village of Vougeot. Yes, it's the smallest commune in the Côte d’Or region, but it's also the largest Grand Cru clos (meaning ‘plot’ or ‘vineyard’). Most Vougeot wine comes from this single vineyard – the outstanding Clos de Vougeot – an absolute must on any bucket list. Further north still and you’re in Dijon – known for its mustard made using verjuice, the unripe juices of white Burgundy grapes, as well as gastronomic exhibitions and a whole host of architectural wonders.
Just 30-minutes north-west from Cromey lies the town of Autun, home to the famous Cathédrale Saint-Lazare, with its quintessential Burgundy glazed roof tiles, and offering some fine restaurants in its locale. (Read our blog on Visiting Autun from Domaine de Cromey here).
Travel east and you’ll come to a collection of outstanding wine-growing villages. A ridge of limestone (known as the ‘Mountain of Madness’ or ‘La Montagne de la Folie’) separates Rully from Bouzeron, the most northern village of the Chalonnaise (the others are Mercurey, Givry, and Montagny).
Couchois – Cromey's Appellation
South-west of Cromey but still in the Hook of Burgundy lies the town of Couches, with its fascinating historic castle. Cromey sits within the Couches commune, in the arrondissement of Autun, and so we feel a particular attachment to the wines of this region. Indeed, our very own vineyard in the grounds of Cromey is within this up-and-coming appellation. Six communes produce Couchois appellation wines which should surely should be famous despite not being as well-known as some of their neighbours. We look forward to helping this fascinating appellation on its journey to greatness.
Did you know that the Domaine de Cromey has its own vineyard called the Clos de Chateau, spread across seven acres? The vineyard is now producing wines in partnership with Domaine Ami, an exciting pair of winegrowers renowned for their innovative and high-quality winemaking in the Maranges Valley. Domaine de Cromey is nestled in the rolling Burgundy countryside, very close to Domaine Ami's vineyard. Domaine Ami, which means "friend" in French, was founded by Sommelier Paul Marchand-Perarnau and oenologist Willy Roulendes. Their organic and biodynamic techniques are working together to create magnificently appetizing wines, each with its own unique character, which will be a hallmark of Cromey wines, soon to be found on BurgundyWine.com.
It was back in September 2023 that we brought in the second harvest, and it included our Pinot Noir Bourgogne Rouge 'Le Clos' Monopole, as well as the Bourgogne Blanc 'Le Clos'. We’re particularly proud that we used no pesticides or chemical fertilizers, and stuck closely to biodynamic methods as much as possible preserving the integrity of this vineyard which has never had any pesticides applied..
Don’t forget we also have a wonderful tasting room where guests can relax and taste in peace and splendour, just mere yards away from where our wines were grown. It’s another reason, alongside our extensive grounds, salon, library and open plan kitchens, that you will find at Domaine de Cromey the perfect place in Burgundy to live like nobility amongst the vines.
We hope you've enjoyed learning about the Hook of Burgundy. Discover more at the Domaine de Cromey blog where you can read about the best cycling routes in Burgundy from Cromey, and the best Burgundy recipes from Ellie’s cookbook. Don’t forget you can also join our brilliant Burgundy Wine Club by following this link.
