Getting to Know Burgundy Wine Appellations: Auxey-Duresses
Meursault Vinification
Discover Auxey-Duresses, A Burgundy Wine Appellation In The Cote de Beaune
The burgundy appellation Auxey-Duresses sometimes poses a pronunciation challenge. It is typically pronounced "Aussey Duress".
Located in a side-valley of the Cote de Beaune, the relatively unknown appellation Auxey-Duresses has a cool climate, which lends a certain unique character to the wines produced here. It also means that growers here must be vigilant against cool summers and spring frosts, something which is more usually associated with more northerly regions such as Chablis. In the Cote de Beaune you may see heaters or fires being lit overnight to protect the valuable grapes from damage from the severe cold (spraying with water to create ice jackets which do a similar job also works well in the Chablis region).
Nearby to the appellation, Auxey-Duresses are more well-known villages such as Volnay, but for those looking for a real bargain, the lower prices of the wines of Auxey-Duresses should entice them. (Anyone visiting here may well wonder to themselves how to pronounce this unusual name—for anyone unsure, it is ‘Aussey’!)
The history of Auxey-Duresses can be traced back centuries. Prior to 1924, the village was simply known as Auxey, but in common with other villages it then attached the name of one of its finest vineyards, Les Duresses. Half a kilometre away you’ll find the tiny hamlet of Petit-Auxey, whose size belies the fact that it was name of the larger village, and dates back to the earliest Celtic settlements here.
The Town of Monthelie
Why You Should Get to Know Appellation Auxey-Duresses Wines
Being Burgundy, the terroir (soil and aspect) is what gives each producer’s wine its own unique character. For example, some of the best Premier Cru wines come from the south-facing hillside of the big hill of Montagne de Bourdon, just behind the village. The hill is really an extension of the earth which Monthélie and Volnay stand on. The eponymous vineyard of Les Duresses can produce its vigorous wines thanks to the limestone and pebble mix in the soil. For great Chardonnay grapes, head to the hill of Mélin, whose soil has a fine texture resembling the glorious terroir found in Puligny.
Generally speaking, the Appellation Auxey-Duresses produces mostly red wines (about three quarters of all its wine output). These are ruby colored with a nice moderate intensity. On the nose they give you rich, fruity scents of bramble and black fruit, with floral notes too. On the palate, they’re supple and refined, but can also tend towards meatiness. With a little age the tannins soften to reveal velvet-smooth earthiness, with spice and leather too.
The small number of white wines here are fine wines with a wonderfully light minerality, especially if they hail from the back of the Meursault slope. This is due to the limestone rock which underpins the soil here, with silica present in the topsoil too. They’re crystal clear and a beguiling pale straw color. On the nose you’ll find green apple and fresh almonds, even biscuity notes combined with that fabulous flinty minerality. As they age, just like the reds they go from sprightly when young to meatier and more persistent.
Saint Romain de Benet and Vineyards
Elden Selections Wines in Appellation Auxey-Duresses
For a real tour-de-force in Auxey-Duresses wines, one producer with whom Elden Selections have long worked is Agnes Paquet. Her family has held an important parcel of vines in the appellation Auxey-Duresses since the mid-1950s. Until 2000, the family rented the land to local vignerons, and it was then, when the family decided to sell the vineyard, that Agnes decided to take on the land herself and become a winemaker. Her Domaine today extends over 13 hectares (over 31 acres), and is considered locally as one of the locomotives and innovators of the current generation. She producers a range of superlative wines which you can find on our wine shop at BurgundyWine.com:
Her white wines include her ‘Patience’ series from several recent vintages, promising zippy mineral notes and lingering complexity in the finish.
Her Appellation Auxey-Duresses Rouge shows the local terroir and tannic structure of her red wines on full display, making an ensemble that is well-structured and juicy in youth. (These wines – such is their popularity - are also available to buy in a six-pack or a case.)
If you’re wondering how to pair these Auxey-Duresses wines with food for a truly sumptuous meal, then the rich tannins of the red wines go very well with white meats, whether they be cold cuts, pork or veal, rabbit or even pasta dishes with herbs. For the more adventurous, grilled fish is a surprisingly good pairing, as long as the red is of sufficient quality (not a problem here!)
For those drinking the white wines of this region, try shrimp dishes or fish in spicy sauces, to really let the lively and fruity flavors sing. These work particularly nicely with a dish such as Salmon with Green Apples and Horseradish. In terms of cheese, look for Gruyere or a young, dry goat’s cheese to make a truly memorable occasion.
Château de Cîteau, Meursault
Appellations to Explore Beyond Auxey-Duresses
If you are making a day trip in this area, then don’t stop at Auxey-Duresses! The rolling hills of this appellation are surrounded by several other wine producing communes you may have heard of – and if you haven’t, put them on your bucket list...
To the north-west lies Saint-Romain - situated in an isolated valley, the view from the commune of Saint-Romain is impressive, taking in the Saone River and vineyards below and is well worth a visit. And because it’s in a valley, it’s a bit cooler than other growing locations and so the wines have a different character to most other appellations (and are also much better set up to deal with growing temperatures due to climate change).
North-east is Monthélie. Despite being the smallest village in the Cote de Beaune, Monthélie’s quiet charm and dedication to winemaking will reward any visitor, as will the 12th century church (complete with famous Burgundy glazed roof tiles) and the 300-year-old Chateau de Monthélie. 65,000 bottles of wine per year are produced – the lion’s share of which are red – soft, fruity and similar to those from nearby Volnay.
South-east is Meursault, with its 19 Premier Crus and a part of the ‘golden triangle’ of Meursault, Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet – from whence come some of the best white wines in the world.
There is no better place to have as your base for an exploration of Auxey-Duresses and the local area than Domaine de Cromey. Why not book your stay with us now? Stay amongst the vines, nestled in the heart of Burgundy, and be our guest. You’ll enjoy fabulous cooking, unforgettable wine tastings, fascinating day trips, and make friends to last a lifetime.
There are more fascinating articles and How To guides on our blog, such as our look back at the Harvest of 2021, and the unique value of old vines. You can also discover more about Domaine de Cromey, our Burgundian farmhouse. And don’t forget our fantastic Burgundy Wine Club is open for membership too!
