The Best Burgundy Pasta and Risotto Dishes & Wine Pairings
Among the most satisfying of all Burgundy dishes in Ellie’s Burgundy cookbook are the Italian-inspired dishes – the risottos, ravioli and tagliatelle recipes. But this crossover between French and Italian cuisine and the resulting delicious Burgundy pasta and risotto dishes is no accident.
During their travels as a young couple, Dennis and Ellie frequently spent up to 12 weeks a year in Italy, where they were able to immerse themselves in the culture and cuisine. Ellie has Italian heritage which has given her an innate sense of that Italian flair and an understanding of the culture and importance of great food. They learned Italian, studied food and wine with experts, and gained a deep understanding and appreciation of Italian ingredients. This passion for Italian cuisine has lasted to this day, and they always strive to incorporate high-quality Italian ingredients into the cuisine they offer at Domaine de Cromey and share it with their fortunate guests. For example, they always serve exceptional olive oil from Lucca, known for producing some of the world's finest oil and also the birthplace of the composer Puccini. Not only is this olive oil a staple at Cromey, but it is also available for purchase in the US.
So, without further ado, let's dive into our favorite Burgundy pasta and risotto dishes and give you some ideas about this fabulous crossover of cuisines that you can try at home.
Our Favourite Burgundy Pasta and Risotto Dishes to Try at Home
Snail Ravioli in a White Wine, Herb and Garlic Bouillon
Europe has a long history of consuming snails, dating back 10,000 years. When purchasing snails, look for the taxonomic names on the label. Two species worth looking for are the Burgundy snail (known as ‘helix pomatia’) and the petit gris from Provence (which is called ‘helix aspersa’). Other species are likely to be Asian slugs and not snails at all. For this recipe which serves 6, we recommend using around 5 dozen small 'escargot de Bourgogne'.
Like all Burgundy pasta and risotto dishes, it will take a little time to prepare these ravioli, but the effort is certainly worth it. Make them in advance, and keep them in the fridge on trays which you can line with parchment paper. Cover them with dishcloths in single layers for up to four hours. If you have a pasta making machine (and we recommend that you invest in one if not) then make sure you are using the thinnest setting to roll out you pasta. That way, you will get nice delicate ravioli. Just remember to use tipo 00 Italian flour for the pasta if you can; it’s more suited than all-purpose flour for this purpose and nobody does it better than the Italians! We serve this dish hot in nice shallow bowls with ladles of the bouillon, with a fresh garnish of chives or chopped chervil.
Now to the Burgundy wine pairing; you want something special for a dish such as this which you have spent time and effort preparing, so our recommendation is a Chablis, because it combines with the snail to produce a flavor which we can only describe as wonderfully ‘gravelly’. It’s a winner every time for us, and the best wines we can point you towards are Jean Dauvissat’s Premier Cru Chablis wines.
Alfredo Tagliatelle with Flaked Sea Trout and Tarragon
Bring out your white Burgundy! They go so well with Burgundy pasta and risotto dishes, and the moist sea trout and tangy tarragon that we use for this recipe transforms this dish into something extraordinary which demands a great white... But more on that in a little while – let's explore how this dish is put together. Use sea trout or salmon, either will do nicely, and cook it wrapped in foil and infused with lemon, onion and tarragon to keep it moist and flavorful.
Place the fish fillet, sliced lemon, tarragon sprigs, and red onion on a large piece of heavy foil. Once you have seasoned with pepper and salt, seal the foil packet. Depending on the thickness of the fillet, bake the fish for 10-15 minutes. Check after 10 minutes; the fish is done if it's slightly underdone. Remove the lemon slices, tarragon, and onion, then flake the fish, and get rid of any skin and bone. Boil 6 quarts of water in a large pot, adding 2 tablespoons of coarse salt and covering it.
Use a large saucepan to heat the cream and melt the butter, then stir in the juice and zest of the lemon, season with salt and pepper and add the fish flakes and chopped tarragon to the sauce. You want to cook the pasta so it is al dente (very slightly hard/firm to the bite) when the water is boiling, which will take around 3 to 4 minutes. Drain and add to the warm sauce. Use parmesan to sprinkle over the top and serve straight away on warm plates.
Now, those wines we mentioned; two of them come from Agnes Paquet, and they are her Bourgogne Chardonnay (with hints of crunchy apple, grapes and great acidity and freshness), and her Auxey-Duresses Blanc 'Patience No 13' (which again has ripe fruit, a bright feel and zippy mineral notes which end with a lingering complexity). The other producer we will recommend for this dish is Gilles Bouton – and his case of some of the best-kept secret wines in all of Burgundy. His 'En Remilly' touches Chevalier-Montrachet, and adjacent to that is his 'Murgers des Dents de Chien'. Then just over the hill is 'Champlots', and they are all present and correct in his case of 12, (in which we of course include the cost of ground shipping so you don’t have to pay extra).
Incidentally, we first met Gilles Bouton in the early days when we were touring with our hotel-barge Le Papillon, cruising the inland waterways in search of authentic Burgundy. I still remember the first sip of his Saint-Aubin 1er Cru ‘en Remilly’, which made us feel like we had found the best deal in white Burgundy. Gilles Bouton took over his maternal grandfather’s 4-hectare (9.6-acre) estate in 1977. The property has since expanded to 15 hectares (36 acres) and is located across four villages (Saint Aubin, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and Meursault), all prime areas in the renowned Golden Triangle of white Burgundy. In 2008, Gilles was joined by his son, Julien. The estate currently produces an average of 60,000 bottles per year. Most of their wine is sold directly to private individuals at the estate or at various wine salons in France. Situated on a steep south-west facing slope overlooking the village of Gamay, Les Champlots receives full afternoon sun, resulting in a more exuberant flavor compared to the ‘En Remilly’ from the other side of the hill. It is expressive, floral, with hints of orange blossom and citrus. The wine is supple and well-balanced, with a smoky mineral finish.
Venetian Pea Risotto
In the Veneto region, risotto tends to be more liquid and moist, often made with fish or shellfish. The preferred type of rice is vialone nano, a short-grain type appreciated for its soft texture and high absorption. High-quality vialone nano rice will expand threefold when cooked, while remaining pleasantly chewy. Risi e Bisi, which means rice and peas in the local dialect, is a standout dish in Venetian cuisine. As the risotto nears completion, a vibrant green stock made from some of the peas is added. The color is exquisite and the flavor is pure springtime. We also prepare this dish with fresh fava beans when they are young and tender.
To get full ingredient lists for these Burgundy pasta and risotto dishes, cooking instructions and links to the wines, you can read our recipes web page here or better still, buy Ellie’s cookbook online here!
The Burgundy Wine Club by Elden Selections offers its members the chance to expand their knowledge about Burgundy wines with four shipments per year. Members also get exclusive invites to virtual events in the US, 2 specially selected wine glasses, tasting notes, and the opportunity to win a stay at the Burgundy manor house Domaine de Cromey. Additionally, you can find more information about the producers, appellations, and terroir of the Burgundy Wine Region on the Domaine de Cromey blog.